“Have you seen the movement in this wristwatch?” the salesperson inquires, slyly turning the watch over to reveal the inner works. Instantly, the man gene kicks in, our eyes glued to the oscillator, the shiny moving parts mesmerizing us like a high-tech fishing lure. This is a time to be calm, step back, and take a deep breath. The movement is the engine and the glass back will let us peek into what really makes this watch tick. About seven years ago the industry really started to place exhibition backs on everything, even some quartz models have the peek-a-boo back. Countless watches display the same movement with their own custom Oscillator. This is all well and good, but as your collection grows you will appreciate who really can dress a movement. Look for techniques like perlage, a circular grain that resembles a pearl, swirled through the metal. Jewels (movement Jewels) can be surrounded by Chatons-gold rings that help replace jewels and make a decorative bezels on the watch’s wheel bridge as well as other parts. The terms go on and on, Cotes de Geneve, Mirror finishing, Anglage. Learn the terms and make sure your watch is dressed properly. CTWG
More good reading:
Deconstructing the Ideal
The A-B-C’s of Watch Finish