Archive for May, 2006

The Emperor’s New Clothes

Exhibition

“Have you seen the movement in this wristwatch?” the salesperson inquires, slyly turning the watch over to reveal the inner works. Instantly, the man gene kicks in, our eyes glued to the oscillator, the shiny moving parts mesmerizing us like a high-tech fishing lure. This is a time to be calm, step back, and take a deep breath. The movement is the engine and the glass back will let us peek into what really makes this watch tick. About seven years ago the industry really started to place exhibition backs on everything, even some quartz models have the peek-a-boo back. Countless watches display the same movement with their own custom Oscillator. This is all well and good, but as your collection grows you will appreciate who really can dress a movement. Look for techniques like perlage, a circular grain that resembles a pearl, swirled through the metal. Jewels (movement Jewels) can be surrounded by Chatons-gold rings that help replace jewels and make a decorative bezels on the watch’s wheel bridge as well as other parts. The terms go on and on, Cotes de Geneve, Mirror finishing, Anglage. Learn the terms and make sure your watch is dressed properly. CTWG

More good reading:
Deconstructing the Ideal
The A-B-C’s of Watch Finish

Add comment May 25th, 2006

Big Game Hunter

Rolex
Enlarge image.

Just recently, a trophy walked into the store to greet me. It was on the wrist of one of my valued customers. It was the Rolex 1655, or as the Italians refer to it “La Freccia Grande” (The Big Arrow). The watch has long been a favorite of mine, and there it was… resting on the wrist of another. He too is a “Big Game Hunter” as I like to call it, searching tirelessly for the rare, low production, obscure models. This particular Explorer II model Rolex is rarely seen in captivity, and he had it, bagged and on display. The hunt continues for me, what models do you stalk in your dreams? CTWG

2 comments May 23rd, 2006

Big vs. Bigger

Omega

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What MM is that? The size of a wrist watch is really a selling tool in todays market. Many guys sport the 40++ MM Watch with a sign of bravado. I must admit, that the larger wristwatches are more attractive to me also. I like to struggle the dress shirt sleeve over the watch till the point that it breaks the buttons off. Check out the RailMaster From Omega, the true Godzilla watch of our time.(Almost 50MM) It could be used as a tea saucer also.CTWG

7 comments May 19th, 2006

The Leak Mystic (mistake)

Waterproof
photo credit: devehf

Many times the first question that a customer asks me about the purchase of a new wristwatch is, “Can I wear it in the water?” Well, yes, no, maybe? It is a loaded question. Let me explain! Watches used to be advertised as waterproof for years, accidentally loaded in washing machines, they took their lumps and came out ticking. The waterproof label no longer exists so you must be very careful about what watch you’re wearing in the event of a spontaneous water encounter! We insiders rate a watch’s water “resistance” now! Here is the skinny on the system: 1 ATM(atmosphere) = 33 feet or 10 Meters or one BAR… all the same thing. Here is CTWG’s system to keep your watch dry, from years of watch repair experience, trust me, this is correct. 200 meters or greater is a dive watch, a strong water resistant watch, wear it in the ocean, wear it to dive etc. 100 meters is a swim watch, pool, minor water related activities. 30 meters is a repair watch, wear it in the water and get it repaired. Most watches fall into one of these three brackets, choose the type that best suits your activities. CTWG

13 comments May 16th, 2006

Go Gadget Watch Go

Swiss

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I love a good tech watch, but no one wants to look like the kid who had the calculator watch in high school. A handy tip to avoid this fate is to purchase a watch that has the name Army in it, this will announce to your friends it is not a pollen tester. The Sportech series from Swiss Army touts tons of functionality and oozes ruggedness. Especially the Sportech 4000 featured above. Water resistant to 30m, altimeter, barometer, temperature gage, chrono, alarm, luminous hands, bat cable (optional). Go Gadget Watch Go! CTWG

1 comment May 11th, 2006

May the Quartz Be with You

Quartz

Enlarge for closer inspection

Yeah, some watch guys don’t seem to take a liken to the quartz movements. They may feel that the traditional approach to watches is the true watch art. I understand this position, but CTWG also feels the evolution of watches is part of the fun. Seeing the Hamilton Electric, Accutrons, and even auto-quartz versions of watches is part of the grand watch story. Without this evolution we could not appreciate what watch makers of the past have truly accomplished, the movement that brought the industry to it’s knees deserves a little attention and respect, in my humble opinion. Check out a few of the new quartz options: Tissot, Omega, Swiss Army and many others do wonderful things with the quartz versions of their watches. Add a Quartz to your collection, and let the quartz be with you. CTWG

Learn more about The History of the Digital Watch.

Add comment May 8th, 2006

Perpetually Perplexing

Glashutte

Click to Enlarge

Have you ever wondered what makes a watch collector so passionate about his or her hobby? I have a feeling that many people do not. Maybe grandpa left that special Elgin manual wind strap watch to you, sure it did not keep the best time, but it was a “real” watch. Regardless of your reason, “you have the bug” as one customer put it to me not so long ago. It made me think, as a collector, what one timepiece would be the perfect gift of inheritance for my offspring after I get shown across? The watch would have to have style, it would have to be unique, its functions flawless, I was perplexed to say the least. Then it came to me, Glashuette Perpetual Calendar, Brilliant! Maybe four or five watch companies can produce a Perpetual Calendar watch, fewer even can say it was done all in-house with their own movements. The watch would have to be Platinum, of course, oozing richness and class. Still, to set it apart even more, the perfect movement, the Perpetual Calendar. A Master watchmakers Opus is the grand complication Perpetual calendar. Here are the stats on my favorite. Automatic movement with there special caliber 100-02, hour, minute, and second display. Moon phase display, panorama date, croc. strap, the works. This would be the watch they fight over, he loved me best etc. What watch would you pick? CTWG

2 comments May 3rd, 2006


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